May 12, 2013

Singer 328K (1964)

A good estate sale find, this 328K is very clean, no use since the last service and is virtually scratch and chip free.

It still needed a good oiling and careful cleaning. The solid brass front plate really shines up nicely.

It came with manual and, cams and an unopened oil bottle!

The styling is just a little quirky, geeky, trainwrecky for me, I can't seem to warm up to it.

 I noticed that the timing was a little off so I went after that, fortunately I had the service manual from the 327 and followed the steps. In doing so the spring for the ZZ unwound so the ZZ no longer worked! When I finally figured out how to tighten the ZZ spring I tightened it too much causing the machine to bind and not be able to get "over the hump." So I got the tension correct; a surprisingly small adjustment.
Then I noticed that the needle was too far from the hook so I moved that in real close, and lastly I adjusted the gap around the bobbin case, it was about twice the spec. dimension.

All in all it now runs very well.

For my automotive reference I have chosen the 64 Mustang. Essentially birthing the muscle car era the 64 Mustang itself was initially under powered but the trend it fostered, within a few years became known for its overwhelming horsepower. Pony cars!

The Oil embargo of 73 put an abrupt halt to muscle cars... for a while.

Checkout this thesis on the era.



  1. The brass face plate is different earlier model 328k. It was light brown and it didn't have a light switch. The light cam on when you plugged the machine in. Personally, I think the warm gray (later model) is better looking.

  2. What is this ZZ spring or spring for the ZZ that you spoke of?
    I have a 328k without light on/off switch and me/my husband are still trying to kill all the bugs. Today while testing all the fashion discs with the different lengths and widths the bobbin kept binding/looping/tangling inside with a horrible clunk and sucked in the fabric of my project.
    What do you think is the problem and how would we go about fixing it?
    Thanks in advance for any reply! :-)

    1. The Zig-Zag spring is a little coiled spring that keeps tension on the Zig-Zag mechanism; the needle bar moves back & forth by pivoting on a shaft.
      As far as the "bobbin bunching" that is usually the top thread tension, it needs more tension so that the stitch can be completed and tightened. Without enough top thread tension the loop stays open and more thread collects under the cover.

  3. I´m making an effort to restore a 69 dodge challenger, muscles cars are great monsters

    1. Yes! go for it, there are a lot of challenger enthusiasts out there. I spent 28 yrs at Chrysler and there are some classics in the lineup.
      Good luck.

  4. I was wondering if you might have the manual for the 327 to download? I have a singer 328 and cannot locate a free service manual. My email address is . please help!

  5. I'm presently working on a 328k that binding somewhere, so that the motor won't run the maching. When turning the wheel by hand, you can feel the binding, however, I can't seem to locate it. Do you have any suggestions?

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  7. I had tightened the bolt in the center of the zig zag cam too tightly and had the same issue of binding. When you tighten or loosen it moves closer and away from a gear mesh. Try and loosen it up. If that doesn't help then oil everything. Clean out the bobbin area and especially around the hook for thread. I found thread in my 328 under the top cover in the mechanics. I also suggest taking the belt off the motor and run the motor. The bad thing about these machines is the motor in the 328 are weak, that and you cannot adjust hook timing. Singer trying to save money back then.